Chapter 6

“The sleeves are an important part of clothing — they need to be sewn smoothly and fitted properly.” Master Wang demonstrated different sleeve types, such as straight sleeves and bell sleeves. Zhang Hongying practiced alongside him, starting with the simplest straight sleeves and gradually moving on to more complex styles.

“If the seams are done well, the garment will look nicer and last longer.” Master Wang taught her how to make clean, neat seams and how to press them flat. Zhang Hongying practiced repeatedly until each seam met his standards.

In addition to sewing, there was also cutting.

Cutting with cardboard was the basic skill. But draping — three-dimensional cutting — was where the true skill lay. Just like how sewing the torso was relatively easy, but the sleeves were always the hardest.

“Draping brings out the three-dimensional shape of the garment better. But you don’t need to learn that. Rural folks like wearing loose clothes — there’s no use for it.

Just practice cutting with cardboard. That’s enough for you.

Once you’re fully trained, I’ll give you a full set of paper patterns.

For now, go finish sewing the bodices of those garments.” Master Wang grabbed a piece of fabric and began draping it directly on the mannequin.

Zhang Hongying knew in her heart that Master Wang wasn’t willing to teach her that skill — but it didn’t matter. Even if he wouldn’t teach, she would still learn.

The tailoring shop wasn’t big. Thinking she wouldn’t understand, Master Wang didn’t bother to hide anything. Zhang Hongying watched with intense focus, committing every step to memory. Her hands didn’t stop either — da-da-da — the sewing machine lines were straight and neat, not a stitch out of place.

Draping is a garment design technique used only by seasoned tailors who dared to cut directly on fabric. This method shaped clothing to better follow the human body, resulting in a superior fit.

Unlike traditional flat pattern cutting, draping emphasized visual sculpting, helping garments conform more naturally to the body’s curves.

A few years ago, people mostly wore big black tunics, and work cloth was the most sought-after material. But times changed quickly — people now wanted bright colors and figure-flattering fits.

Of course, in the village, if a woman wore something tailored to the waist, she’d still be scolded for being “improper.” Even wearing triangle-cut underwear could get you labeled a “hooligan.”

But Zhang Hongying knew — give it another ten years, and everyone would be wearing store-bought shorts. Maybe younger people would wear triangle briefs, and the elderly would go for boxers.

That loose, shapeless style would soon fall out of fashion. A tailor needed to make clothes that hugged the body, highlighted strengths, and concealed flaws — that was the true skill to make a living.

Zhang Hongying also realized that draping required the right fabrics — usually lightweight and moldable materials like cotton or silk. You also needed tools like pins, scissors, rulers, and marking pens.

Master Wang could drape fabric directly on a customer’s body and start cutting right away.

Back home, after observing everything at the shop, Zhang Hongying began practicing on a doll.

Her cousin Zhang Hongfang had a doll with removable clothes — a gift from her grandmother in the city.

Sometimes Zhang Hongying felt envious of Zhang Hongfang. Although her mother had moved back to the city, she still sent her things often. The new aunt made her do chores and take care of younger siblings, but she also treated her decently. The only thing was, the aunt always told her to complain to her birth mother — to ask her for things.

Zhang Hongying borrowed the doll, saying she’d make clothes for it now that she was learning tailoring.

She took some fabric scraps from the shop — with Master Wang’s permission. Since they weren’t paying her wages, if she couldn’t even take a few scraps, that would just be too stingy.

Zhang Hongying first draped fabric onto the doll, making sure it lay flat and wrinkle-free. She started with the torso — the chest and back — then gradually extended to other parts.

She used pins to fix the fabric on the doll, being careful not to pin it too tightly or too loosely. For real garments, you’d also have to account for fabric shrinkage after washing. The pins went along the edges and seam lines for easy adjustment.

Then, based on her design, she adjusted the fabric through folding and piecing until she had the desired shape and details. Sometimes it took several tries before she was satisfied.

Once the shape was finalized, she marked key points and lines with a pen.

Li Xiaofang would often yell: “Stupid girl! Back when you were in school, at least you helped with cooking and grass-cutting. Now you’re learning tailoring, and all you do is fiddle with that rag all day. What the hell are you doing?”

Zhang Hongying thought to herself — as a child, she’d always heard the villagers casually insult girls as “xi ba” and boys as “little coffins,” without thinking much of it. But living another lifetime, she realized just how vulgar and demeaning those words were. What kind of parents who truly love their children would use their private parts as insults?

Zhang Hongying had learned a foul mouth growing up — she’d insult women with the word “that xi ba.” But Wu Xiaohong, even when arguing with outsiders, would never say that about Shen Jianzhen. Shen Jianzhen greeted people by their names — she never used “you xi ba” as some kind of casual or affectionate phrase.

Later on, even Li Xiaofang never dared refer to her daughter-in-law Li Xiuqin with that term. She would respectfully say, “Our Xiuqin.”

Yes — learn from Shen Jianzhen. Start by getting rid of vulgar language.

Under Li Xiaofang’s scolding, Zhang Hongying kept making clothes for the doll — testing fit, observing the actual effect, and continually modifying and adjusting.

Zhang Hongfang was thrilled. Her doll now wore Chinese-style clothing — it looked like a proper Chinese doll!

Zhang Hongying even made several outfits for it. Zhang Hongfang took them to school to show off, earning admiration from classmates — she was glowing with pride.

When Li Xiaofang found out, she was even more furious: “You’ve got fabric to make clothes for a doll, but not for your mother?!”

Zhang Hongying quickly tried to soothe her: “Ma, I’m saving up fabric to make you a round-neck blouse. These pieces are too bright — you wouldn’t wear them out anyway.”

Li Xiaofang grumbled but softened: “Well, even a pair of shorts would be nice.”

Zhang Hongying replied patiently: “Ma, Master said, this kind of crackly fabric isn’t suitable for close-fitting clothes. When I get some cotton, I’ll patch it together and make you some shorts.”

Li Xiaofang eyed her suspiciously: “How much fabric can your master really give you?”

Zhang Hongying explained: Clients usually took their leftover fabric home. Even the tiniest scraps — they wanted to make mops or cleaning rags. Only when Master Wang made sample clothes from his own fabric did there end up being excess. And even then, he only kept the big pieces. The really tiny, odd-colored scraps — those he let her practice with.

So how much she’d get — even she couldn’t say for sure.

“Ah, my good daughter — whether your mom gets new clothes now, it all depends on you,” Li Xiaofang’s tone flipped instantly.

Zhang Hongying chuckled. When there were benefits to be had, she was a “good daughter.” If things didn’t go well — she was back to being a “stupid xi ba.”

In her previous life, she’d truly been blinded by her environment, unable to see clearly. A whole lifetime of being taken advantage of — it was because she’d been foolish.

To avoid gossip and scolding, after a year of training, Zhang Hongying finally saved enough fabric scraps and pieced together a round-neck blouse for Li Xiaofang.