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Please only read this translation at S h a n g h a i f a n t a s y . c o m to support the translator
Lin Dan didn’t stay in the kitchen but instead had the boys set up a simple canopy at the entrance of the restaurant. Inside, they arranged a stove, pots, bowls, a cutting board, and knives. She then thoroughly washed her hands and face and tied up her long hair with a cloth to prevent it from falling into the food and contaminating it.
After stirring the master stock, Xiao Zhu pitifully pleaded, “Shopkeeper Lin, can you cook us a bowl of noodles? We need to eat to have the energy to work.”
Lin Dan glanced at him with a smile before cutting a piece from the prepared dough, quickly pulling it into fine threads of noodles, and placing them into the boiling spring water. She then lined up five large bowls and scooped a ladle of milky-white bone broth into each. Once the noodles were cooked, she sliced the braised meat into thin pieces, neatly arranging them on top of the noodle soup. She added a few boiled green vegetables, placed half a soy egg in each bowl, and finally sprinkled some chopped scallions and cilantro.
“Eat up and get to work right after.” As soon as Lin Dan finished speaking, Xiao Zhu and Shaoyao cheered, each grabbing a bowl of soup noodles and noisily slurping them down.
“Sister Lin, the noodles are so springy and the braised meat’s savory flavor blends perfectly well with the bone broth, neither too salty nor too bland. It’s just right. Can I have another bowl?” Shaoyao praised as she ate.
“Sure, I’ll make another bowl. You and Dujuan can share it.” The children were still growing and their appetites were naturally large. Lin Dan could easily afford to provide them with an extra bowl. She turned to continue making noodles, but Xiao Zhu curiously asked, “Shopkeeper, why did you move the kitchen outside? It’s not very convenient with people coming and going at the entrance.”
“It’s precisely for convenience that I moved it out here. When customers want a particular flavor of noodles or a specific portion, they can tell me as soon as they enter. I’ll make it right away and it’ll be ready in no time. Noodles are best when freshly cooked— smooth, chewy, and distinct in texture. If you delay, they become clumped and lose their taste. We’ll move the kitchen back inside once we start stir-frying dishes at noon since the smoke can be overwhelming for the customers.” Lin Dan always pursued perfection in her culinary skills, prioritizing the customers’ experience above all and arranging things to suit their convenience.
Xiao Zhu and the others repeatedly nodded, showing they understood. Just then, they heard a deep voice say, “Lin Dan, being your customer must be the happiest thing in the world.”
“You’re here again.” Lin Dan shook her head with a smile. “You flatter me. What flavor of noodles would you like?”
“I’m not picky. Cook whatever you think is best.” Ninth Brother Tang stepped inside and Xiao Zhu and the others quickly greeted him before going ahead and cleaning a table and a chair for him.
Lin Dan knew Ninth Brother Tang was a genuine gourmand, able to appreciate any flavor, so she cooked a bowl of noodles with thick sauce for him. After greeting the first customer, she began preparing the savory topping. She first took out a piece of well-cooked pork belly from the master stock pot, finely diced it with a knife, and stir-fried it over high heat. Then she added diced tofu, bamboo shoots, and water bamboo shoots, pouring in some clear water to simmer into a thick sauce.
“It smells amazing. Can you add some of that topping to my noodles?” Ninth Brother Tang eagerly asked.
“Of course, but adding a spoonful of topping will cost an extra wen.” Lin Dan joked.
“Even if it costs five more wens, it’s worth it.” Ninth Brother Tang gave her a deep look, then mixed the newly added topping into his noodles, before taking a big slurp. His eyes immediately lit up. With just a half-pound of braised meat, Lin Dan had managed to stir-fry a large pot of diced vegetables into such a rich, meaty flavor. Her culinary skills were truly remarkable.
Lin Dan seemed to notice his surprise and explained, “Most people who start work before dawn aren’t wealthy and they can only eat meat during the holidays. The braised meat noodles here sell for four wens a bowl, which some people definitely can’t afford. So instead of just serving plain noodles, I make a semi-vegetarian topping with a piece of braised meat, giving everyone a share of its flavor at a lower price. Tofu, bamboo shoots, and water bamboo shoots are all soft ingredients that absorb oil and sauce easily. When cooked in the master stock for just a short while, even vegetarian ingredients can taste like meat. This is a technique known as ‘imparting flavor’.”
Ninth Brother Tang had put down his bowl without realizing it, completely engrossed in what she was saying.
As Lin Dan discussed her culinary philosophy, more people began to follow the aroma, curious to find out where it was coming from. Such a rich braised meat scent must be coming from a restaurant preparing breakfast to sell. Although most couldn’t afford braised meat, they could still buy a bowl of plain noodles. Any cook who could make braised meat so richly must have great skills.
Thinking this, many people turned into the narrow alley and found their way to Hometown Dishes Restaurant without needing any directions. Even those who took a wrong turn quickly found their way back. The aroma of the food was the best signpost.
In no time, a crowd had gathered at the entrance. When they saw the pot of steaming master stock, they couldn’t help but swallow, feeling their stomachs rumble with hunger. Ninth Brother Tang, thoroughly enjoying his noodles with a satisfied expression, made them even more envious.
“Boss, how much for a bowl of noodles?” A burly man asked, swallowing his saliva.
“A bowl of plain noodles is one wen, noodles with topping is two wens, additional topping is one wen, and noodles with braised meat is four wens. I also have two types of porridge, each priced two wens.” Lin Dan slowly replied.
Xiao Zhu and the others quickly ran out, enthusiastically greeting the customers, “Guests, if you’d like to eat, please come inside.”
“Only two wens for noodles with topping? That kind of topping?” The burly man pointed to the large pot, his eyes shining. The braised meat had completely melted into the sauce, while the diced tofu, bamboo shoots, and water bamboo shoots had absorbed the flavor and color of the meat, making them look indistinguishable from braised meat and taste just as savory, with an added sweetness that braised meat lacked.
The man, unaware of the technique used, thought the semi-vegetarian topping was made entirely of braised meat, and his expression turned to one of amazement. A bowl of such meaty noodles would cost at least five wens on the street.
“That’s right, only two wens. This topping is made from vegetables, so it’s not very expensive.” Lin Dan patiently explained.
“Then give me a bowl!” The man didn’t hesitate any longer and immediately walked into the shop, secretly delighted in his heart. Who cares if it’s vegetarian or not? As long as it tastes like meat, it’s good enough.
He appeared to be the leader of the group. As he entered, the others followed suit, each ordering a bowl of noodles with topping. Their accents were identical, suggesting they all came from the same place.
Lin Dan spoke softly, “Judging by your accents, you all seem to be from northern Shaanxi. How about I adjust the toppings to a northern Shaanxi flavor for you?”
“It can be adjusted to different flavors? Great, that sounds perfect!” The group eagerly nodded in agreement.
Lin Dan placed a pot on the empty stove and poured in some oil. When the oil was heated to about seventy percent, she added chili powder to create red chili oil, setting it aside for later use. Since there were nine diners in total, she scooped nine ladles of topping into the pot, stir-frying it briefly with the red oil. She then added some starch to thicken the sauce, and once it started boiling, she tossed in finely chopped pickled cabbage to cook with the savory topping. The original master stock-based topping thus transformed into a pot of fiery red, spicy, and tangy northern Shaanxi-style topping.
When it was ready and the noodles were cooked, Lin Dan quickly scooped the noodles into nine bowls, put the toppings in, garnished each one with minced ginger, chopped green onions, and cilantro, and had Xiao Zhu and the others serve them.
The men had initially come just to try something new, but when they saw the familiar bowl of noodles from their hometown, their expressions softened. They couldn’t wait to pick up their chopsticks and take a bite. As soon as they did, a hint of moisture appeared in their eyes. The noodles were thin yet chewy and the topping was tangy and spicy, bursting with flavor. The warm sensation in their stomachs brought back long-lost memories of home and childhood— memories that they dared not even think about in the quiet of the night. The nostalgia these memories stirred up was intense, yet somehow comforting.
“This is delicious, just like the taste from my childhood!” One of the men, after wolfing down several mouthfuls of noodles, spoke in a slightly hoarse voice. His companions repeatedly nodded, their expressions content. After enjoying a bowl of these hometown noodles, they felt a surge of strength and believed they would be able to carry more goods later and earn a bit more money.
“So good, I’ll be back tomorrow.” One of the men said before even finishing his noodles. His once bleak life now seemed to have a glimmer of hope.
“Me too.” The others chimed in, nodding in agreement. There’s nothing like hometown food that one can never get tired of.
A short while later, a few more people arrived at the entrance of the shop. They were slightly shorter in stature and their accents were so thick that it was difficult for most to understand what they were saying. However, Lin Dan, well-traveled and knowledgeable, had no trouble communicating with them. She patiently explained the prices of the noodles and porridge.
They stared at the pot of master stock for a while and ultimately couldn’t resist the temptation and stepped inside.
“Judging by your accents, you gentlemen must be from Baiyue. How about I adjust the topping to a Baiyue flavor?” Lin Dan politely inquired.
The men looked skeptical but nodded slightly. Lin Dan scooped out several ladles of topping and diluted the flavor with water. She added some sugar for seasoning, then took a small jar from beside the stove, scooped out a few spoonfuls of a dark, thick sauce, and poured it into the topping. An indescribable fishy smell filled the air, but as it blended with the fragrance of the savory topping, it transformed into an especially savory aroma, with a faint hint of the sea.
The men’s skeptical expressions were immediately replaced with surprise. They began chattering excitedly, giving frequent thumbs-up.
Lin Dan nodded and said, “That’s right, this is ghost crab sauce. I made it myself. Please try it and see if it tastes authentic.”
People from Baiyue, especially those from the western region, had a particular fondness for ghost crab sauce. Whether cooking meat or vegetables, they liked to add a bit of it for seasoning. They also enjoyed using ghost crab sauce, sweet bean paste, and chili bean paste to make savory toppings when cooking noodles. Having spent a few months in Western Yue, Lin Dan had perfected the authentic Western Yue noodles with thick sauce— a unique blend of fishiness and freshness.
With the topping adjusted and the noodles portioned into bowls, Lin Dan added a ladle of thick milky broth, garnishing it with pink shrimp flakes and bright green scallions, making the dish look particularly appetizing.
The men didn’t wait for Xiao Zhu to serve them or find seats. They simply stood by the door, watching Lin Dan cook. As soon as the noodles were ready, they took the bowls themselves and quickly started eating. No matter how far they traveled, the taste of home remained unbeatable.
The aroma continued to spread, attracting waves of new customers. Lin Dan tailored the flavors according to each customer’s preferences. For people from Shuzhou, she added Sichuan peppercorns and chili bean paste to create a numbing and spicy taste. For those from Hunan, she made it fragrant and spicy. There were also sour and spicy, and onion-flavored versions, among others. For those who didn’t like soup, she made plain noodles or chili oil noodles. Every possible flavor was available.
It’s often said that it’s hard to please everyone’s palate, but for Lin Dan, this task didn’t seem particularly difficult.
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pocketrobbin[Translator]
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