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This translation is by Pocketrobbin at S h a n g h a i f a n t a s y . c o m
Fermented tofu dreg was a specialty of the Zongzi Kingdom, a small vassal state established by the remnants of the Xia and Shang dynasties. The kingdom had sought to restore its former glory but was eventually annihilated by the famous general Zi Kong of the previous dynasty. Though it was still called the Zongzi Kingdom, it was now nothing more than a mere county under the rule of the Great Chu.
Lin Dan hadn’t expected anyone to know about such an obscure place, let alone describe the process of making this local specialty in detail. She couldn’t help but glance at the handsome man. He met her gaze for a moment before continuing to gnaw on his dry rations.
The slices of cured meat in the pot were now completely coated in the fermented tofu dregs. The rich fat sizzled and popped as it boiled, releasing a thick aroma into the air. Lin Dan withdrew her gaze and said to the young girl squatting beside her, “You can pour in the water now.”
The young girl hurriedly poured water into the pot. As the water mixed in, the dish’s already unappealing color turned even murkier. However, the overwhelming smell of the brine subsided considerably, allowing the fresh scent of beans and the smoky fragrance of the cured meat to come through, bringing out the dish’s true flavor.
The wind quickly carried this change in aroma throughout the area. The three men sitting not far away couldn’t help but sniff the air. Their previously dry mouths began to water profusely and they found it easier to swallow the hard flatbread without needing a drink. Yet, as they looked at the flatbread again, they suddenly found it hard to stomach.
Lin Dan paid no attention to their discomfort. Feeling that the food in the pot wasn’t flavorful enough, she added a few more seasonings, stirring slowly with the spatula. The broth was already boiling, bubbling vigorously, while the steam carried an intense fragrance, assaulting everyone’s senses.
The young girl swallowed her saliva and asked, “Sister Lin, the broth has been boiling for so long and you’re only adding Sichuan peppercorns now. Won’t that make the flavor too weak?”
Lin Dan replied slowly, “These are rattan peppercorns, not Sichuan peppercorns. Sichuan peppercorns have a numbing taste, while rattan peppercorns are slightly astringent in their numbness. Cooking them for too long makes the food bitter, so they should be added later. The numbness of rattan peppercorns is actually more authentic than that of Sichuan peppercorns. There’s no need to stir-fry them in oil. Just simmer them in boiling water for a quarter of an hour and they’ll release a clear, spicy flavor.”
The young girl nodded in understanding. Lin Dan then placed the chopped bamboo shoots into the pot to simmer for a short while before rolling up a few wild green onions, ready to add them to the dish.
The young girl quickly tugged on her sleeve, puzzled. “Sister Lin, you once said that the most important thing to avoid in cooking is muddling flavors. Why is this fermented tofu dregs stewed with cured meat so different? The dish is already strongly flavored and now you’re adding these pungent wild onions. What if it all ends up tasting inedible? I think the flavor now is just right, no need to add anything else.”
Lin Dan smiled at her and gently explained, “Do you remember the seasoning methods I taught you? For strong-flavored dishes, you use the ‘enhancement method’ to emphasize the richness of the dish. For light-flavored dishes, you use the ‘reduction method’ to highlight the freshness. There’s also the ‘blending method’, the ‘transformation method’, and so on. I’m using the enhancement method right now. I’m adding the sour and spicy flavors of the fermented tofu dregs to the smoky saltiness of the cured meat. The two mixed together with the numbness of the rattan peppercorns create a slightly muddled flavor. At this point, adding wild green onions introduces a hint of sweetness and bitterness, and its unique fragrance will blend with the strong odor of the fermented tofu dregs, creating layers of flavors. A good dish is about the distinctiveness of the flavors, not just the appearance. The interaction between flavors is crucial. Sourness can reduce saltiness, while saltiness can enhance sweetness. It’s quite fascinating. That’s why I didn’t blanch the cured meat in boiling water before stir-frying this dish— because the sourness of the fermented tofu dregs would have diminished the saltiness of the cured meat, making the dish bland. Remember this for the future.”
As Lin Dan spoke, she gently stirred the wild green onions into the pot. The previously murky tofu dregs soup now showcased beautiful layers of white, red, and green, creating a visually appealing dish. An indescribably rich aroma wafted through the air.
The young girl swallowed her saliva again and marveled, “Sister Lin, you’re amazing! Adding the wild onions really changed the flavor of the soup! The dish has transformed three times! If you hadn’t explained it, I never would have thought of doing it this way.”
Lin Dan chuckled, “Let me test you— why did I add the bamboo shoots?”
“Bamboo shoots and cured meat are meant to be cooked together. They taste better that way.” The young girl answered, still in the early stages of her culinary training.
Lin Dan patiently explained, “Fermented tofu dregs and cured meat are both preserved foods. While tasty, their biggest flaw is the lack of freshness. The bamboo shoots are there to enhance the freshness and compensate for the dish’s shortcomings. Try it— you’ll notice a fresh and lively taste on your tongue after adding the bamboo shoots.”
Lin Dan scooped a bit of soup with a spoon and held it to the young girl’s mouth.
The young girl took a small sip and immediately gave a thumbs-up. “It’s really fresh! Sister Lin, you’ve brought this dish to life!”
Lin Dan shook her head with a smile, then called out to the others, who were already drooling, “Alright, everyone can eat now.”
“Food’s ready! Hurry and get the bowls and chopsticks!” The crowd that had already gathered quickly served themselves rice, scooped the dish into their bowls and began to eat voraciously. The clattering of chopsticks against bowls and plates, the sound of tongues slurping up food, and the gulping of soup filled the air as the group ate with the urgency of people who hadn’t eaten in days.
The young girl ate until her forehead was sweating, her cheeks flushed. She couldn’t help but sigh. “Sister Lin, ever since you fell ill, we haven’t had a proper meal in a long time. After getting used to your cooking, everything else just tastes bland.”
Lin Dan rubbed her head affectionately. After taking a few casual bites, she retreated to the carriage to lie down. Her illness hadn’t fully recovered, and the smoke and fumes from earlier had made her throat sore again.
Two of the men sitting not far away couldn’t help but swallow their mouthfuls of bread while Lin Dan was cooking. They stretched their necks to peer into the large pot, and even the usually aloof leader couldn’t resist sneaking several glances, his pace of eating slowing noticeably. When Lin Dan began explaining the seasoning techniques of the dish, the leader found himself unable to eat any more bread. He abandoned his water pouch and listened intently, ears pricked.
Lin Dan’s voice was slow and gentle, her words vivid and descriptive. Even if one couldn’t see the food in the pot clearly, just hearing her describe it and smelling the aroma was enough to imagine how delicious the taste of the fermented tofu dregs and cured meat must be. When the servants began fighting over the food, those imaginings turned into reality, making the three men’s stomachs growl like drums. Their mouths watered and waves of hunger washed over them.
“Damn it, I can’t take it anymore!” The carefree man cursed, wiping his glistening lips with his sleeve.
“Such a big pot of food, do you think they can finish it all?” The other man asked hopefully.
The handsome man didn’t respond, but his phoenix eyes were fixed on the large pot, his Adam’s apple bobbing slightly as if he were swallowing saliva.
The three men sat in silence for a while, watching as the people on the other side continued to pick at the food in the pot, grabbing pieces of cured meat, then bamboo shoots, and then wild mountain onions. In the end, they even scooped up the tofu dregs soup to mix with rice, making the three men increasingly restless.
“Zhao Lao[1]Old Liu, go ask them if there’s any extra food. We’ll pay for it.” The carefree man nudged his companion with his elbow.
Zhao Liu cursed under his breath. “Why don’t you go?”
“Didn’t I just curse out that little servant? I have to save face!”
“Luo Tietou, you care about face, but I don’t?” As soon as he finished speaking, a gust of wind blew the rich aroma of the food over to them, the spicy, sour, and smoky flavors mingling together, tantalizing their senses even before tasting it. It was downright intoxicating!
“Damn it, to hell with face, I’m going to ask!” Zhao Liu tossed aside his pride and ran over while clutching two taels of silver.
The little servant, who had previously been coldly rejected and mocked by the two men, struggled to lift his face from his bowl, rolling his eyes while saying, “There’s so little food and there’s a lot of us. How could we not finish it?”
“We’ll pay for it, isn’t that okay?” Zhao Liu pulled out two taels of silver, grinning obsequiously. The firewood was still burning, keeping the broth simmering, and the aroma was simply irresistible! As soon as Zhao Liu approached the pot, he couldn’t move any further, his mouth watering uncontrollably.
“No.” The little servant bypassed him and walked to the pot, scooping up a few slices of cured meat, then some bamboo shoots and wild onions, and slurping them into his mouth, too busy eating to say another word.
Zhao Liu stared pitifully at the servant’s greasy mouth.
Feeling embarrassed by his subordinate, the handsome man sternly ordered, “Come back here.”
Zhao Liu glanced at the servant’s soup-soaked rice, then at the boiling pot, and reluctantly returned. The three men collectively picked up their water pouches and drank, filling their stomachs with water to stave off hunger, but it only made the taste in their mouths even blander. After sitting for a while, they each went to relieve themselves and the water they had just drunk was quickly gone. Now, hungrier than ever, they stared at the large pot with green eyes.
The little servant, unnerved by their hungry stares, thought to himself, We’re not parting ways until tomorrow and there might be a need for these three in the afternoon or evening. We might as well give them a little. He then scooped out the last bit of meat and broth from the pot into a large bowl and called out, “There’s a little food left. Do you want it?”
“Yes, yes, yes! Thank you, Little Brother!” Zhao Liu, who could hardly sit still, ran over as fast as he could. Though the other two tried to hide it, their Adam’s apples still bobbed uncontrollably.
The final broth was the essence of the soup. The cured meat had long been tender and the tofu dregs half-melted. Though it didn’t look great, the flavor was exquisite. Breaking open their bread, they dipped it into the bowl to soak up the juices, then took a big bite. The hard texture was immediately replaced by a soft, tangy, salty, spicy, and umami flavor that made them wish they could swallow their tongues.
The three men huddled together heads nearly touching. Each of them was holding a piece of bread dipped in the broth with slices of smoked meat sandwiched between, eating in large, hurried bites. When only a little broth was left, the handsome man glared, and the other two didn’t dare move. They tearfully watched as their leader broke his bread into pieces, tossed it into the bowl, and slurped up every last drop.
When Zhao Liu returned the bowl, his face was flushed. The bowl was spotless, cleaner than if it had been washed with water.
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pocketrobbin[Translator]
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